Corrugated City

Monday, 16 July 2007

Valle de Colchagua

A couple of months ago we got a visit from one of the girlf's school friends, Pamela. They hadn't seen each other for over 10 years but got back in touch randomly. Even after all this time, they got on really well and we were invited to go stay with her and her husband any time. We decided to take them up on the offer over the weekend.

Now the best thing about this couple is that he is an oenologist, otherwise known as a wine maker. Hans works for Viña La Estampa, a small vineyard in the Colchagua Valley that produces 'mix' wines i.e. 2 or more varietals mixed together. The vineyard has only be up and running for 5 or 6 years so it's a really new operation but they produce some pretty decent wines. Nothing really pricey (most expensive around us$40, average around us$16) but as the company grows the quality of the wine will improve.

The Colchagua Valley is world famous and was recently voted the best place in the world for winemaking. Its climate and soil are perfect for red wine grapes and Chile's natural borders (the Pacific and the Andes) coupled with some seriously strict agricultural customs agents mean that Chile is the only wine producing country free of phylloxera.

The Valley itself is beautiful, even in winter when there's no foliage on the vines. Santa Cruz is the centre of the Valley and is quite a nice little town. It has a stunning hotel that serves as the base for anyone with cash to explore the local vineyards. The hotel is owned by one Carlos Cardoen, a Chilean arms dealer who sold weapons to various different countries not-friendly to the US. As such, he can't travel outside of Chile for fear of reprisals and has invested heavily in various tourist ventures and vineyards in the Colchagua Valley. Probably not a very nice man but he's done a hell of a job promoting tourism in the area, so at least he's done one thing right...

We obviously visited Hans' vineyard and also scored an invite to have a peak around Casa Lapostolle, a vineyard that produces seriously good wines. We visited the new vineyard that produces exclusively the premium Clos Apalta. They've invested heavily in the new bodega and the result is pretty amazing. There are also 3 or 4 beautifully designed mini-houses that serve as a small hotel. They all have views over the valley and of the Andes in the background. At us$500 a night it's pricey but...possibly worth it...

Later that day we had lunch at the Club Social in Santa Cruz-hearty country fare, cheap and tasty. The girlf had a big bowl of brains (at least that's what i think raw sea-urchins look like). Revolting, but she loves them.

Later that night we went for dinner at PanPan VinoVino, a pretty nice restaurant in a huge converted bakery. The food was good and if you're in the area, it's worth a visit.

We were really lucky with the weather-we had 2 clear, sunny days and only today, when we were driving back, did we see any rain. We're definitely going to go back and visit in summer when the vines have leaves and everything looks greener. A visit to the Valley is highly recommended for anyone visiting Chile. It's a 2 and a half hour drive south of Santiago, 3 and half from Valpo. You can do organised tours through the Ruta del Vino or you can hire a car and simply visit the vineyards on your own. If you want to try the wines, i'd suggest doing a package tour with hotel included and getting very, very drunk.


Viña La Estampa









Casa Lapostolle



That's us with Hans and a porkily pregnant Pamela









That's a big bowl of brains...or sea-urchins.

Thursday, 12 July 2007

How to Speak Chilean Spanish

There are many variations of Spanish in Latin America. I've been fortunate to have learnt 3 of the most extreme examples. I can now understand pretty much anyone from anywhere, with the exception of real Spanish people-they just sound ridiculous and all i hear is 'th-th-th-th-th' and the occasional "Ostia!".

I started off in Ecuador back in September 2003. Ecuadorian Spanish is beautiful and a great place to start as the accent is extremely clear and there's not too much local slang. After 3 months there, i arrived in Buenos Aires. One of the first things i was asked was "De donde sos?". "Sos"? What the hell was that? This was going to be a challenge...

Actually, after a week or so, i got used to the Argentine accent, intonation and use of "vos" instead of "tu". After 3 weeks in Argentina, i was in Chile. Problem. Chilean Spanish is a whole other language. Comparing Chilean to any other form of Spanish is like comparing Geordie (way-ay) English to the Queen's English. Incomprehensible.

Whereas Argentine Spanish is melodious and sing-song, Chilean Spanish sounds like a machine gun. Actually, i think it sounds exactly like the Martians in the film "Mars Attacks". Ack, ack, ack, ack, ack, cachai? Ack, ack. When i first arrived in Chile, it was just noise pollution.

I moved back to Argentina in early 2004 for a few months, then back to Chile for 3 months and then back to Argentina for another 2 and a half years.

This created a number of problems-problems that i'm very grateful to have had. When i went to Chile, i was laughed at for speaking Argentine Spanish (especially with my English accent). When i was in Argentina, i was laughed at for speaking Chilean Spanish (especially with my English accent). So i learned to speak both forms. Now and again, this would cause problems as i'd mix up local terms and get looked at like i was a weirdo. But overall, it was quite a successful way of doing things.

But after 7 months in Chile, i think my accent is now well and truly Chileanised. To be honest, although i much prefer the Argentine accent, the Chilean accent is far easier to imitate. It just trips off the tongue more easily. But it's a hard dialect to crack at the start. It was almost 2 years before i was able to sit around a table with a group of people and understand just what was being spat across at each other. It was like an epiphany. Suddenly, it just all made sense.

So why is Chilean Spanish so difficult? Here's a run down.

-Firstly, Chileans really hate the letter "S". Many Chileans believe the "S" is actually the devil in disguise*. They just refuse to say it. Gracia, tu quiere, pe'cado etc. Any "S" that's not the first letter of a word just disappears. This causes problems when, for example, someone asks you what you were doing: "Que hacia?" is what is actually said and unless the context is very clear this could actually be a question addressed to oneself, another person directly, another person directly and formally or a third party not present. Confusing and annoying.

-Chileans also have a dislike of saying -ado. So the word pescado sounds like pescao (actually it really sounds like pecao as the "S" in the middle is dropped). Supermercado-Supermercao and so on.

-Chileans invented their own form of the second person singular tu. For -ar ending verbs, the tu form ends in -ai instead of -as. A donde vai?, Como estai etc Verbs ending in -er or -ir have -i as the 2nd person singular ending. Que queri? Volvi? and so on.

-Chilean slang is infinite. I'm not even going to start to try to make a list, but here are some of the most common words you'll hear.

Fome-Boring,
Cachai?-Get it?,
Al tiro-Straight away,
Huevon-Idiot, Hueviar-Annoy/Piss off,
Pega-Work,
Harto-A lot (used like Mucho),
Bacan-Brilliant/Great,
Ya-Yes, ok, good,
Cacho-Tricky situation, a catch,
Caña-Hangover,
Guata-Belly,
Gua-Gua-Baby,
Paco-Cop/The Fuzz


There are 1000s more terms-a quick google search will turn up dozens of pages of them...

You should watch local telenovelas to keep on with the slang. Then you'll understand it when someone talks about, pelolais,  flaite and pokemonas. Cachai, huevon?


Here's another little post about a quirk I forgot to mention in this article.


*I made that part up completely

Monday, 9 July 2007

Michelle Bachelet is Rubbish

For some reason, many native Spanish speakers have great difficulty telling the difference between the letters "B" and "V". They sound very similar but, to me, there's a very obvious difference between the sounds. In all my time learning, butchering and now speaking the Spanish language, only one word has caught me out (the verb caber, if you must know). It's not a class or education problem-i've seen well educated and rich people make the mistake as much as poor and less-educated people.

Happily, the error sometimes results in comedy...just around the corner from my house in Valpo is this sign:



It should read: Por Favor No Botar Basura, which means "Please don't throw your rubbish here". What is actually says is "Please Don't Vote Rubbish". Why is this funny, i can hear you ask...well, look in the background of the next photo.



The same house has a poster of President Michelle Bachelet. Perhaps not the kind of support she really needs right now...

Sunday, 8 July 2007

Sunday in Reñaca

Although i'd rather be back in my own house over in Valpo, there are a couple of things i really like about this small, cold flat we're staying in at the moment. Reñaca is really nice out of season-quiet and chilled out. The beach is the best and cleanest in the area and the views are beautiful. I'm finally a little bit more mobile after all the back trouble so i headed down to the beach for a walk. Whilst there, i got a call from the girlf, who went to Santiago yesterday for a birthday. "What's the weather like?", she asked..."It's cold, cloudy and smoggy here in Santiago."

Although cruel, i just had to tell her...





Saturday, 7 July 2007

Getting Robbed in Chile

Everyone worries to some extent about getting burgled. A lot of burglaries are pre-planned, the house having been scoped in advance...so what if you, as a law abiding citizen, could tell if your house has been marked for a good robbing?

Well, here in Chile, you just need to check around the outside of your house every day before entering...because Chilean burglars have a whole list of drawings to mark houses prior to robbing them. Thanks to a novice burglar who didn't know the drawings by heart, the police found this list and it was published in the 'papers last year. I've finally found the drawings online over on escapeartist.com. So, if you find any of these markings on your front door or on the pavement outside of your house then fear the worst...or call your friendly, neighbourhood Caribineros de Chile on 133. If the burglars set fire to your house then call 132 and if they gave you a good beating then call 131.




1. Owners returning soon
2. Owner opens door with a chain
3. Empty house
4. Caution: Police
5. House has already been robbed
6. Talk about God-you'll be well received



7. You can rob this house
8. Charitable house
9. Too diffiicult
10.On holiday
11.Single woman
12.Nothing of interest
13.Very nice [house]
14.Rob the disabled person
15.Nothing here
16.Careful-there's a dog
17.Use a crow-bar
18.Only women living here
19.Ready to rob

Friday, 6 July 2007

The Stock Exchange

My back's gone funny again so i've got not much else to do but lie in bed with my lap top and the telly. For that reason, i'm going to upload a few photos in spite of the slow connection i'm on at the moment.

This post is about the Bolsa de Valores here in Valparaiso. Located on the corner of Urriola and Prat downtown in the Banking District as it would probably be called in the States, the institution was Latin America's first Stock Exchange, inaugurated in 1850, something that demonstrates the importance and wealth that Valparaiso once enjoyed. It used to to be in this building that i can't place...it possibly doesn't exist anymore.




The history of the Stock Exchange in its current location dates back to 1911 when construction started. It was finished in 1915, a year or so after the opening of the Panama Canal-an event that pretty much signed Valpo's death warrant. At the time, Valparaiso was still one of the continent's richest and most important-financially at least-cities. it was Chile's banking, financial and also economic heart, and the country's most important port.

The Stock Exchange was still active and important until 1929 when the Great Depression came along and kicked Valpo while she was already down from the Panana Canal. The British, who pretty much ran the country through economic ties pulled out and never returned. Slightly more pressing matters arose soon after the recovery from the the Depression and then we British kind of lost all importance after the Second World War.

Here's the outside of the building (if you're reading this for a second time and wondering why the photo's changed...i accidently linked to a photo of the El Mercurio building, a mistake i didn't notice at first...)




Here are a few photos from the ground floor of the building. I've just found out you can take guided tours on Thursdays at 12pm so i'm going to sign myself up to see the rest of the building asap.

The ceiling in the entrance hall



Entrance to the trading floor



The dome in the main hall



The old hand-written board showing "Shares and Bonds"



The hive of activity that is the Trading Floor. Remember that this used to be the busiest stock exchange in South America...



The "BC" stands for Bolsa de Corredores which was the new name for Bolsa de Valores



Offices above the trading floor



Antique light fitting and column



I guess this is where the head of the trading floor used to sit and give orders...



Side office entrance



Detail on the columns



Original mosaic tiles





Staircase up to the gallery offices



When i do the tour i'll do another post and put more photos up.

Thursday, 5 July 2007

Where to stay in Valparaiso

So there are a lot of posts about buildings to see and restaurants to visit on this blog. But where should you stay?

Here's a quick run down of possibilities...

For the ricky ricones out there then i'd suggest one of the following 3 boutique hotels:

-The Hotel Gervasoni. This hotel is probably one of the best private renovation jobs i've seen anywhere and is really well positioned at the end of the Paseo Gervasoni, next to the Lukas museum and the top of the Ascensor Turri/Concepcion all on Cerro Concepcion. The owners spent a small fortune restoring the old mansion and did a hell of a job. Original details were delicately recovered and pricey antiques dot the place alongside more modern touches. It has a great terrace with views of the port and bay for drinks (appalling slow service) and a restaurant below with some seriously good wines in the cellar. You can read my none-too-flattering review of the restaurant here. Also on the downside, they have a ridiculous booking system that has made us look elsewhere for friends and clients on two separate occasions.

And another edit to this post: The service for drinks or food on the terrace is nothing less than appalling. Three times I've been there with friends or clients and on every occasion it's taken absurd amounts of time to get our orders. The last time, it took them 40 minutes to bring a beer, a whisky, a coffee and a glass of champagne. And when it did arrive, the waiter spilled the champagne and took 10 minutes to bring another. Terribly, terribly shoddy. Management really needs to get a hold on things quickly or the place is going to get a reputation as bad as the Brighton.

A double costs around 85,000 pesos (us$160) a night.

-The Manoir Atkinson is around the corner at the end of Paseo Atkinson. Rooms are about the same price. The roof terrace in the Atkinson is really cool.

-Another great option is the Zero Hotel on Cerro Alegre. This place, on Valpo's most expensive street-Lautauro Rosas-opened in mid 2007. The house has been beautifully restored and decorated (not in the same original style like the Gervasoni though) and the views of the city and bay are pretty bleeding amazing. It has a jacuzzi on the terrace. And you can see my house. We know the management there and they run a really tight ship. Mightily impressive. Quite expensive as well for Valpo and Chile as a whole at around 140,000 pesos (us$270) a night for one of the 4 suites with views. Quite possibly worth it.

-At the top end is the Casa Higueras on Higueras, Cerro Alegre just up from the Ascensor Peral which also has a restaurant (i haven't been yet). Prices range from 140-180,000 pesos. The terrace is really cool and there's a swimming pool as well. Along with the Zero, it has a very good reputation amongst international travellers.


Mid-range for the wannabe rich or sensible spenders:

-The Hotel Ultramar is slightly cheaper than the aforementioned hotels. It's a bit further out of the way of all the fun, high up on Cerro Carcel but the views are simply spectacular and the hotel is really well run. From 30,000 to 90,000 pesos a room.

-Allegretto just scrapes in at mid-range. Just opened and run by the owner of the Allegretto Pizza place i reviewed a while ago, i haven't actually seen the inside of the place but it looks ok from the photos. 30,000 pesos a double and they have a dorm as well.

Low-range for people who think spending a fortune on accommodation is folly:

-There are a couple of hostels on Cerro Concepcion. The first is Hostal Pilcomayo on the corner of Pilcomayo and Templeman and the other is Casa Aventura which is on the corner of Urriola and Pasaje Galvez. No idea what they charge but i expect it'd be on the range of 5-8000 pesos per person for a dorm bed. You could also try the Hostal Morgan.

There are a few more hotels and many b&b's around, especially on Cerros Alegre and Concepcion. Those mentioned are just the ones that come to mind and/or that i've personally visited. I'll keep adding to this post as i remember and see more.

Hotels in Valparaiso Chile
Accommodation in Valparaiso Chile

Wednesday, 4 July 2007

Renovations-more structure

After getting back from Santiago, we went to the house to see how things were moving forward. The floor upstairs has now been taken up so there's daylight between the ground and 1st floors. Fortunately, all the beams are in good condition-they've bent a little as the house slipped a bit down the hill but it's nothing major.

We also had a visit from the head of the Consejo de Monumentos Nacionales. This is kind of the equivalent of the National Trust in England but with the difference that in Chile, the organisation is permanently broke. Anyway, we want to make a slight change to the house which will alter the exterior appearance of the place just a little bit. Because we're slap bang in the middle of a UNESCO World Heritage Site and our house happens to be one of the most noticeable in the area, we have to get a building permit. The lady in charge of the Consejo de Monumentos Nacionales holds a lot of sway with the local council who give the permits so our architects thought it a good idea for her to see the house and give her opinion. It was also good for us to meet her as we will probably have quite a few dealings with the Consejo and the council if things go well with work.

Despite her initial stance of trying to be a little tough, she softened quite quickly and was really nice and impressed with what we were doing. Without actually saying 'yes' we think she pretty much gave us the green light, which is great news. She's a pretty important person so it was imperative we gave left a good impression. I think what she liked most was that we're restoring the house to its former glory and we're actually going to live there. She explicitly asked whether it was going to be a holiday home and looked relieved when we assured her it wasn't.

So, all in all, a good day. Below a few more photos of the structure.








And finally...sunset over the Pacific from where we're staying in Reñaca.

And now for something completely freaky

Last week i went to Santiago to see our chino due to the problems i have with my back and he left the job "half done". Over the weekend it got really bad and i was confined to my bed and unable to move a muscle without feeling like someone was stabbing me in the back and twisting the knife. Not pleasant. So i went back yesterday. The pain wasn't as bad as over the weekend but it was still pretty bad.

After 45 minutes of deep muscle massage (painful but bearable, just) he decided to use ventosas. Ventosas are glass jars that are heated up and placed on acupuncture points-they form a vacuum and allegedly help separate the muscles, nerves and fat layers allowing more blood to flow around and helping reduce localised swelling. It's not exactly painful but it is a bit uncomfortable-like a love bite performed by someone with a hell of a mouth on them...

It's worked a bit-my upper back is a lot less painful and my lower back, which is actually the cause of all the pain (i have an extra vertebrae) is a little less sore as well. Still hurts like hell but better than before.

I also went for a full back scan to see if there was a hernia or anything that specifically caused the back-knack (thanks to the wonders of health insurance) and i'm waiting on the results.

Anyway, if you're of a nervous disposition, i suggest you look away now. Not only will you see how obscenely white my body is after a year and a half without sun (i never got the chance to sunbathe the summer just gone) but the pictures of the ventosas are pretty nasty as well. Enjoy!





The after effects-i've had this done once before and the marks took 4 and a half months to go away. It takes normal people about 4-5 weeks. The lines on my back are shadows, by the way...

Monday, 2 July 2007

Corrugated Environmentalism

Well for the past 3 days i've been stuck in bed. Something happened to my back on Friday-a flare up of a long term problem and i've been doped up on muscle relaxants and pain killers ever since. I think i've slept more in the past 3 days than i have in the past 6 months which has done me the world of good. Always a silver lining.

Anyway, i've had time to think and i've decided to veer away from the usual content of this blog (namely pretty pictures of kittens and colourful houses) and venture into the uncharted waters of issues.

I honestly believe that Chile does a lot of things right. It has an open and investment friendly economy, levels of corruption are no worse than in many 'developed' countries and the police are honest and unbribable, unlike in every other South American nation. The economy is growing steadily and the middle class is expanding. We have friends who are not from wealthy or even middle class families who have good jobs and have been able to buy cars and homes. This is way ahead of Chile's neighbours. One major problem is that the wealth-gap is not shrinking. As in, although the country as a whole is growing more wealthy the gap between the wealthiest and the poorest isn't getting any smaller. And Chile has one of the largest gaps in the world. The only silver lining is that as the whole country has come up, Chile's poorest are no longer as poor as Argentina's, Peru's or Bolivia's poorest. They're still obscenely poor by European poverty levels but not so much by South American poverty levels. That's some sort of progress at least.

But i'm not here to talk about the wealth divide. I'm here to talk about the environment. Because this is a topic that Chile just wants to ignore.

I've heard the following comment a number of times from people who really should know better:
Chile's emissions are so minor that they don't have any impact on Global Warming so it doesn't make much sense for companies to improve emissions standards.


Ok, so it's probably true in some respects. Chile could probably produce 10 times more emissions and within a week China would be producing even more but that is simply not the point. As Chileno
repeatedly points out, smog in Santiago makes life a misery for the people who live there. And about 30% of Chile's population lives in Santiago.

I've found that most people from Santiago have a 'bury your head in the sand' attitude when it comes to smog. They know it's a major problem but they just refuse to really accept it. I guess they feel powerless and want to ignore it so they can feel as if they have some sort of control over the problem. I don't know. It's a weird attitude. I know that if a major European capital had the same smog problem they'd at least make an effort to improve things.

Santiago suffers from a number of problems. The first is the thermal inversion layer, the second is the huge quantity of old, polluting buses doing the rounds, the third is that due to Chile's recent economic success the amount of new cars on the road has boomed, the fourth is that there's a lot of heavy industry within the cuenca or 'bowl' of Santiago, the fifth is the attitude of the the people who live in Santiago and who can't be bothered to complain and finally, the sixth is the attitude of the government.

And at the end of the day, it's the fifth and sixth reasons that are the most important. If Santiaguiños knew how to demonstrate like their Argentine cousins over in Buenos Aires then the government might sit up and take note. Unfortunately, 17 years of Pinochet turned Chileans into a meek and malleable people. Maybe that'll now change-the first generation since the end of the dictatorship who don't fear torture, murder and reprisals are coming of age and are starting to make their voices heard. This is real progress.

But because the people don't complain the government is under no social pressure to improve things. So it doesn't do anything to improve things. The Transanfiasco was supposed to reduce smog levels. I don't believe it has.

It was only last year that the government created an Environment Ministry. Unfortunately, the Environment Minister is a bit of a lame duck. The big business that pollutes the most is very well connected. The Environment Minister isn't well connected. She has the best of intentions but she doesn't have the power or the connections to make things change. We know her family very well and i know she really wants to make a difference. I also know she's not from a background that will help her play hardball with the big boss men who essentially run Chile's economy. Seriously heavy fines should be introduced for businesses that don't meet strict standards and these standards should be real standards, not make believe like the smog levels in Santiago (the government classes pollution levels as 'good' when they're around 3 times higher than 'emergency' levels in Europe and the US).

What Santiago needs is a purpose built high-tech industrial park outside of the cuenca. This should be government built. Major incentives should be provided for polluting businesses to move the hell away from Santiago. The government is currently rolling around naked on a bed in Vegas with huge amounts of cash due to high copper prices. It should spend some of this money on improving the quality of life for 30% of its people. It'll never happen, of course, but it'd be nice to believe it might.

But there's another problem. Chile's economy is almost entirely based on environmentally damaging industries: forestry (chop down native forests and plant pine and eucaliptus), mining (dig big hole in the ground and plans are afoot to 'move' a glacier in the south in order to reach 'possible' gold), agriculture (redirect mountain streams and rivers, use inordinate amounts of water for irrigation) and finally, salmon farming (release farm bred salmon into fragile southern eco-systems along with tons of chemicals and antibiotics).

These industries cover the entire length of the country from the mines in the north to the salmon farming and forestry in the south with agriculture in between. There's not an area of the country left untouched from environmental havoc.

Now i honestly believe that it's unfair for developed nations to force developing nations to uphold the same environmental standards as them. I mean, developed nations got to where they are by employing the same methods (manufacturing, manpower, bullying) in the past to get to where they are now. It's very hypocritical for, say Britain, to force Chile to use high-tech equipment that only recently Britain could afford.

However, i also believe that Chile has the money to change at least some of big business' practices. I'm no expert but i'm willing to bet that a lot of these changes could be made with a short term profit reduction but with long term gains through greater productivity. But short term losses hurt, unfortunately, and most people just don't want to even consider them.

Also, Chile is perfectly placed to take advantage of the boom in eco-tourism. This country has some of the most spectacularly beautiful and diverse scenery in the world. This must be protected, not only for foreign tourists but also for future generations of Chileans. Tourism really is big business. But Chile doesn't seem to care about that either as it charges an absurd 'recipricocity tax' on americans, canadians, aussies and mexicans just to enter the country. This puts a lot of people off coming to Chile.

So what's the real solution to Chile's environmental problems? Well...it's hard.

This has turned into more of a rant rather than a well-reasoned and well-researched article. Oh well...Corrugated City will be back to nice photos of the seaside and old buildings as soon as i'm able to walk properly again.